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| Christmas lights on the cours Mirabeau |
Here in Europe we don't have Thanskgiving to protect us from heading full-tilt into commercial Christmas. By early October we had already received a thick magazine from Carrefour, a large supermarket chain, displaying gift ideas for children. Television ads start showing winter scenes and children's toys... while outside it is still bright, sunny and warm, and we're lunching on the balcony in short sleeves.
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| Chalet on the cours Mirabeau |
Early November the street lights and Christmas decorations are being mounted in downtown Aix. Wooden chalets are being installed the length of the main drag - the cours Mirabeau. All is completed for the 19th November light-up, which I have to say, is a dazzling display both along the cours, and throughout the narrow shopping lanes behind.
The chalets offer mulled wine, candy floss (barbe à papa) and toffee apples as well as traditional, local gifts such as lavender and scented Marseille soap. There are hand-painted silk scarves, leather bags and purses, gifts for all ages and tastes, and even a chalet where budding prestidigitateurs can buy tricks and magic accessories.
Despite efforts by the large stores, the official French Christmas period kicks off on December 4, the feast of Sainte Barbe. Tradition has it that wheat planted on this day will germinate and grow well. You can buy little packets of seed in many boulangeries: the sprouted wheat is used to decorate both the Christmas table and the traditional crèche.
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| Santons nativity scene |
But a crèche in Provence is no ordinary nativity scene. While you will recognize the standard figures of the holy family surrounded by animals, there are many more figures not seen elsewhere. For Provence is the home of the santons, small hand-painted ceramic figures representing traditional trades. So baby Jesus is visited by shepherds and the three kings, but also by the lavender grower, the fish seller and the local baker. A beautiful nativity scene representing the holy family in a Provençal village setting has pride of place along the cours Mirabeau.
Since this is France, no celebration is complete without lots of good things to eat and drink. La Place Jeanne d’Arc, near the famous fountain of La Rotonde, becomes a gourmet delight. First, a food tasting mounted by two of the villes jumelées or sister cities of Aix. Tents appear, and soon Aixois are lining up to enjoy varieties of wörst from Tübingen in Germany and pastas from Perugia in Italy. These are soon followed by La Foire Aux Olives, mounted by local olive growers. You dip your bread and taste a huge variety of oils, stock up on jars of preserved olives and olive products such as tapenade, a delicious anchovy and olive spread. These all make wonderful Christmas gifts.
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| Treize Desserts |
If by any chance you are still not prepared for Christmas, it’s no problem for the Aixois. Provence is home to the famous treize desserts, or thirteen desserts of Christmas. The olive fair is now supplemented by local farmers, producers and artisans of all types representing the thirteen desserts. So what are the famous treize desserts? Ask ten people from Provence and you will get ten different answers, but here is a generally-accepted list: figs, almonds, raisins and hazelnuts or walnuts, thought to represent four orders of mendicant friars; black and white nougat; la pompe à huile, a large, flat cake flavored with orange blossom; mandarins; crystallized quince; dates; melon or watermelon; grapes; and in Aix, les calissons, a confection of almond paste lightly flavored with liquorice, produced here in the town. Fans of Marcel Pagnol will recognize the list from the Christmas scene of Le Chateau de ma Mère. Other stalls are packed with jars of jelly, baskets of fruit, boxes of hand-made chocolates, all beautifully wrapped and ready to offer as gifts. Who needs socks and ties when there is quince jam, local wine, olive bread, trays of preserved fruits?
All these products and the local artisans that produce them are highly valued. Tradition plays a strong role here, with a table rich in quality and variety to be shared with friends and family gathering together over the holidays. We will be doing likewise!
So whether you’re planning oysters and foie gras, ham and sweet potatoes, or maybe roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, we wish you all a very happy and safe holiday.
Trevor and Valerie
© 2011 text and images Trevor and Valerie White
All these products and the local artisans that produce them are highly valued. Tradition plays a strong role here, with a table rich in quality and variety to be shared with friends and family gathering together over the holidays. We will be doing likewise!